Search Results

UPDATE - 11/7/2023: The latest shady tactic is this: Salesman: Sign Here and we'll see if you "Qualify"... And if you DON'T qualify, we'll only charge you an "inspection fee" for our time. The Catch: You've just signed a binding contract that you only have 72 hours to get out of. You've also agreed to pay an undisclosed amount of money to the contractor if you don't "qualify" for their loan and can't pay cash/out of pocket for the project. To us, the major concern is the lack of transparency on the "inspection fee": How much is it? How many man hours were you billed for? Did they charge you for electricians to inspect the home? Will the fee be SO high that you can't afford to NOT do the project? Will paying the fee forever put a bad taste in your mouth about the rest of our industry? LITERALLY NOTHING GOOD CAN COME FROM SOMETHING LIKE THIS. Further - what does qualify mean? Did your salesman explain the lender's terms to you before you signed their contract? Was "debt-to-income" ratio explained before they had you apply? Continuing reading our article Uncovering Concerning Sales Tactics in Portland, Oregon: Don't Sign ANYTHING at the table to learn more! Please do not fall for this one. You will end up either doing business with a less-than-ethical company because you can't afford to waste the money on their undisclosed "inspection fee" and you'll resent the fact that you paid more to them (than you would have with us). And finally - yes - you could potentially take them to court for their undisclosed fee and unscrupulous closing tactics, but in the end - the lawyers are the only ones who win here. MAYBE the state catches them and fines them for illegal trade practices - but it will cost YOU a lot of money to prove it. In addition, in the last six months, we have been getting calls from customers who are sharing stories about our local peers in the industry that really have me concerned. You see – I know for certain now that today’s companies aren’t cut from the same stuff that companies that started 15-20 years ago are. They don’t have the same requirements we had to have in order to participate in certain state funded programs like Energy Trust of Oregon or the Oregon Department of Energy’s programs. When we started our solar adventure, we realized very quickly that getting the state certs wasn’t just a matter of showing up to a mini-convention, signing the paperwork, and getting listed as a “qualified” company. Nope. In fact – we were trained (by some of the best in the industry – who have gone on to have successful national careers) to analyze the customer’s needs. We had to pass tests – decently hard tests. And then we had to pass rigorous onsite inspections from these agencies to get the sign-off on our work so that the customer could collect their promised discounts. If we didn’t pass, we had to eat the loss or fix what was wrong. It was just that simple. But first and foremost – we had to determine if they were “solar ready” (a term regularly used by ETO and ODOE back in the day). Why? Well – candidly -it’s because solar was WAY more expensive 15 years ago that it is today. The local incentives helped – but relative to today’s pricing, we were considerably more expensive. I often told my customers (back then and again today) that “you gotta want it” (meaning that financially – it would eventually pencil out, but that date was a few years out – just like today). So, what was “solar ready” 15 years ago? Well, it was my job to interview the potential customer and take a “deep dive” into their homes and businesses to see if there were any other energy saving options available to them that would lower their annual use. You see, DPI Solar was (and still is) a company that only wanted to sell you the solar you NEEDED – and we always try to look at other things during our first visit that we could suggest to you that might make your electric bill smaller (by replacing older appliances/hvac units/windows/add insulation to your attic or crawl space). If you did these things, we knew that your electric bill could and would be less. Which in turn made it more likely that the expensive endeavor you were considering would be less expensive because your usage wouldn’t justify the same size system (as it would without doing the other things first). “Solar-Ready” for us meant we were going to sell you the least amount of solar that you need to achieve your goals. So…the start of this meandering mess of words indicates that I’ve seen and heard some things recently that concern me – because customers are being bullied, taken advantage of, lied to, deceived, or just out-right swindled. Story #1: A customer wants us to add battery backup to his solar installation (one that he paid $80,000 for). We did NOT sell him his original installation. And here’s where it gets awful: he was told to “just sign here to get the onsite evaluation from the company started” Unfortunately, the “sign here to get the site survey started” line turned out to be a contract – that he failed to read – and that he did in fact sign – for a VERY overpriced solar installation that was supposed to include the battery backup with it. Guess what? He tried to get out of the contract, but he waited too long: in Oregon, you have a 3-day right of rescission that allows you to cancel any contract. Wait too long? You’re stuck. And that’s what happened here: he waited too long, found out the “site survey” was the first step of an installation he had agreed to (regardless of the fact that he was told by the sleazy salesperson that it was only to “see if he qualified” for a permit). And now he has a solar array that doesn’t have all of the promised equipment – nor will it ever. That's right: They took him for $80k and he didn't even get the battery backup he was promised. He got swindled. Plain and simple. Story #2: Another customer sends us a nice rejection to our bid, stating that the other guys really convinced her that the solar panels they were selling we FAR superior to anything else on the market (not to mention that these panels were also involved in saving baby seals and dolphins while simultaneously being encoded with the formula to cure cancer). Ok..ok…I may have slightly exaggerated that last part. But here’s the irony: the solar panels she was convinced to purchase are the same brands and models we offer in our own workbook. And here’s what I’d have to say about these panels to her: “Yes – they’re great! As a contractor and electrician who’s been around solar panels for nearly 20 years, I do think that their marketing is good, but in general, the products themselves are not significantly different from any of the other panels we have on our offering list” I’d then go on to ask her what’s important to her insomuch as the product is concerned. Mainly because there’s not a product in our offering list right now that isn’t excellent – including the one that she purchased. They are all backed by solid companies that have successfully ridden (and survived) the “solar coaster” over the years. In my opinion – you’ll find products in our list that are (again – my opinion) over-priced and brand-name priced, but in no way, shape, or form significantly different from the next module in the lineup with similar output and specs. You’ll also find other products in our list that are fantastic options with lower price points that yield as much (or sometimes more) power per year than the higher priced products in our list. In the end, we want to be able to offer you a variety of options – and give you the tools to make the right choice. But in no way, shape or form – and I say this with CONVICTION – is there a product on the market today that absolutely produces significantly more power (ie: 10% or more) than anything we’re currently offering. What’s that mean to you? It means that we have options from all of the top manufacturers at a variety of price points that will help you achieve your goals. Will any of our products cure cancer? Nope. And they won’t save baby dolphins or seals either. But with the right information, we can help guide you to a product that is backed by a high-caliber manufacturer with a warranty that is the same (or better) than most/all other products on the market. Summary: don’t get sold on a more expensive product when there’s something else on the market from a larger, more established manufacturer that has the same or better warranty – for less money. I make you this solemn promise: I got into this biz because I wanted to offer our customers solar for a fair price (as opposed to other salespeople romanticizing what we do). In the end – this is electrical work and we’re selling and installing electrical equipment. And as a (first and foremost) electrician, I believe that there should be some standardization to this industry. And I know for a fact that we (here at DPI Solar) have made a lot of impact on our market to do just that. We watch, year after year, new (and established) companies go out and buy jobs at a discount to the customer, only to close their doors months later because they can’t pay their employees or their vendors. And inevitably – we get the call to come out and fix what they left un-fixed (or unfinished). So I implore you: do your diligence on the product and the team you’re partnering with. If their price seems too good to be true – then undoubtedly – there’s a catch somewhere. It might be that the warranty you were so convinced of no longer exists – because the company backing it is long gone – shuttering their doors and leaving you without support. It might be the unfortunate fact that they promised to install a product they aren’t authorized to install (yes – we still have to go through a process to be able to offer you battery backup as well as certain other products like high-performance electrical panels). You may end up swindled. You may end up over-sold and under-delivered. Or you might end up getting exactly what you were promised. And the only company I can assure delivers on all fronts is DPI Solar. We’ve been around longer – because we keep our promises. Until next time… Josh

Hello again! I'm going to address something that has been a growing concern with many of our customers this year: low production and bills coming in from the electric company. 5 Years In- Will my Solar Panels Still Work? Many of our customers have enjoyed several years of low-or-near-zero power bills from the electric company (*they still pay for the meter and basic charges, but typically not for electricity) And yet, in February and March of this year, they suddenly got electric bills that they weren't used to (and on top of that, many of them have not felt the rate increases that non-solar owners see every year, so a new bill looks stunningly large!) So, what gives? Are these systems now suddenly not working like they used to? Is there something wrong? Should we roll the trucks and check it out? The answer is: No. There's nothing wrong. We see this every few years. And we don't need to roll the trucks to check on your system - mainly because we can see if it's operating as expected through the online monitoring portal that we set up for you. On that portal we can see levels of detail that aren't usually shown to the end user - like voltages and amps generated by your system, warnings, faults, fault codes, etc. These portals give us an instant update on the health of your system. So when you call us, the first thing you'll hear will be clicking the keyboard and logging into your respective portal to see if there's anything wrong (or not). This year, to help sort this out for our customers, we started looking to history of the systems to see if anything is "off" and (in general) - there's nothing wrong with any of the systems (we have over 1200 systems online since we started installing solar) So...what have we found? Take a look at the screen shot below (of a system that was online and fully operational for all of 2020, 2021, and 2022): We can see that the production numbers in the first half of last year are down when compared to 2020 and 2021 - significantly. And...it's no wonder: look outside. Think back to this March and (gulp) the snow that we got - many times during the month. We've had a very wet year so far (snow pack in the mountains is at 150% of normal and our reservoirs are full for the first time in decades). And - that does play a role. What we've seen is solar production being anywhere between 10% to 20% less than we've seen in previous (drier) years in the winter. And that's for a full year! Winter time production isn't as significant as summertime production, but without it, these systems use up their "banked" power (that was generated during the previous summer) faster. So when your property sees a very wet spring (and cloudy early summer) with less sunny days, it means that you're not "filling the piggy-bank" full of kilowatt-hour credits like you did in sunnier years. Less banked credits = less credit to use in the winter/early spring months (which include January, February, and March) when your system is likely producing less power than you use per month. Other things that play a role for our customers (that installed solar years ago) are lifestyle changes: 1) They retired and are home more, using more power 2) They had someone move in with them (boomerang kids moving home, parents moving in with the kids, kids moving in with parents to take care of them as they age) 3) They bought an EV (or two) 4) They remodeled and added square footage 5) They added other significant power-hunger things (water feature in yard, hot tub, sauna, indoor plant cultivation, etc). 6) They replaced gas appliances with electric appliances When our customers (who installed years ago - and had these systems making all of their power for them for years) experience a lifestyle change, it can mean that the solar array (that was sized to offset a certain amount of power), is no longer large enough to meet their new needs of their property. Remember: a solar array produces "X" amount of power (estimated) per year. We base the system size off of the usage we are shown when we bid the project. If we've sized the system to meet 100% of your needs 5 years ago, and you end up adding in more usage during the next five years, then eventually, that additional usage will show up on your bill (as 100% five years ago might only be 80% now if you added significant usage to your bill). When we see customers getting bills in the late winter/early spring, it typically means that they are using more power per year than the system is producing - over the course of the NET METERING YEAR. Again - this could be due to equipment issues - or it can also be due to lifestyle changes (which is more often than not the case), and WEATHER. If Mother Nature throws some damp months at you early in your Net Metering year, it could mean that the amount of banked kilowatt-hours just won't last you all the way to the end of the Net Metering year. PGE's net metering year runs from April 1st of one year to March 31st of the following year. During that 12 month cycle, the systems (when sized to produce 100% of the customer's power) will start producing (roughly) the same amount of power (in April) that the customer uses - plus or minus moderate amounts. Moving into May (with expected historical weather patterns) we will see these systems "over-produce" (meaning they make more power during these months than the customer is using). This overproduction typically holds through the summer and into the mid-fall. Around early October, we usually see these systems start to produce less power due to weather and available daylight hours. During the next several months, these solar arrays will "under-produce" the amount of power needed to offset your monthly usage. This is when your "over-production" comes into play: you'll end up using credits on your bill (that you accrue during the summer months) to make up the difference in power generation that the winter months will inevitably yield. If you run out of "overproduction" credits too soon in the winter months, you will end up getting bills (typically as early as January, but generally during the usage months of February and March). So - if your equipment is running fine, but you've experienced some lifestyle changes OR the weather the previous spring and early summer was unusually cloudy/rainy, you're LIKELY going to see some electric bills for the months of February and March. Typically, the rest of the Net Metering year is "normal" insomuch as you still continue to see the solar array meeting the property's power demands on a monthly basis. You do have some options if the above explanations don't resolve your concerns: 1) Reduce your usage - this is the easiest thing to do and is the most cost-effective. Get your usage down to where it was before by conserving where and how you can. 2) Add additional solar panels to your system. This is expensive - and in years when the weather isn't as wet, you'll end up leaving money (bill credit) on the table each April when the net metering year resets and your credits get "zeroed" out. 3) Add a power monitoring system to your property to "see" where the power is being used up. This is less expensive and can help identify older equipment (like AC/Heat pumps, well pumps, etc) that might be wearing out and using more power than it used to. It can also help identify easy ways to conserve power as these products tend to show the user if they are a "typical" user of (for example) a coffee pot - or not (maybe you like leaving your coffee heated all day once you brew a pot in the morning). This option is more expensive than simply conserving where you know you can, but far less expensive than adding solar panels and inverters to your existing system. (here's a great product to consider: www.sense.com) Also try to remember - we are working with "averages" when it comes to predicting how much power you use - as well as how much power these systems will make each year. Some years, you'll use more than the system can offset. Some years, the system will make less than the estimated amount. Each of these will have you paying an electric bill in the early part of the calendar year. And finally - some years, the systems will make more power than you need and more power than we estimated. During these years, the excess power credits get donated to low-income assistance bills by PGE (on or about April 15 of each year). In the end, don't hesitate to call! We want to make sure your systems are running like they should. We have yet to invent a device to clear the clouds over your property - but if and when we do, we'll call! Until then - here's to sunnier days ahead! (I'm really getting tired of freeze warnings in April!) Josh

So - you've come to the conclusion that all of these ads and YouTube videos are really telling (mostly) the truth about your power costs. You've considered that owning your own solar array will make a huge impact on your financial wellbeing and future, while also adding tremendous value to your home. But... The price! Yes...I do hear this a lot. And at least a few times a month, I field a phone call from a customer who wants to buy the parts online and have us design the system for them. They might even want to pay us a nominal fee to help them permit the installation. And...why not ask us to apply for your incentives while we're at it? The reality here for DPI Solar (and every other installer) is this: RISK When we insert our name into your project, we (on some or even many levels) are making ourselves responsible for your install. And therein lies the risk: if something happens, we could be held liable for your workmanship, lack of proper supervision to ensure compliance with manufacturer specifications, and even have our own licenses and abilities to provide our services severely impacted. This, dear friends, is why we won't extend this service to you. "But Josh, I'll sign something that removes liability" (you promise)... Yet when that solar kit that you bought online fails to live up to your expectations (or worse - you can't get a tech support group to talk to you because you're the home-owner), you will inevitably come back to us (or some other installer) begging, and then threatening. Why? Because you spent 10's of thousands of dollars on your kit - and it doesn't work like it should - even though you had us sign off on the design. Again and again - we've seen this scenario play out - and it's awful for all involved. So, why would someone buy a solar kit instead of hiring an expert? Money. Plain and simple. Trust me - I get it. I've also learned the hard way (in my own life) that, just because I CAN do it myself, doesn't mean I should (hint - divorce proceedings that allowed myself and my ex-wife to get a quicky divorce without using those dang old expensive attorneys!) I'll never forget the words my (all-to-late-years-later) divorce attorney said to me: "Josh - if you promise to stop trying to do attorney work, I promise to not do electrical work" And you know what? That stuck with me! Decades later, I still remember that lesson. (PS: I've since found my soulmate and have been in a mostly-blissful relationship with her for seven years!). So - without trying to sound self-serving, I'm going to touch on Five Factors to Consider Before Buying DIY Solar Kits and why to avoid them: 1) Solar installations are complex! You need to know the electrical codes from Articles 110, 240, 250, 310, 690, 705, and 712. There's more than just knowing these codes - you need to know how to apply them without somehow accidentally violating a code in a different section. In addition to the code complexity of these installs, you're also likely trying to do something (or things) that you've never done before. For reference, the National Electrical Code is actually one of several sections of the NFPA codes - specifically - section 70. So what does NFPA stand for? National FIRE Protection Association. That's right - our electrical code is first and foremost a standard to prevent FIRES. Hiring a professional contractor helps to ensure that your installation is done correctly and safely. Furthermore, hiring a professional contractor also comes with the added reassurance that your contractor is licensed, bonded and insured. So if the worst DOES happen, your contractor gets to fix it - and not you! 2) Warranty and maintenance. In order for your manufacturers to offer you warranties, you must be able to prove that you installed the system per the manufacturer's specifications - no shortcuts allowed! Your contractor knows this and it's in his best interest to follow the manufacturer's BKM's (best known methods) for installation. Not doing this can void your warranties. Further, not knowing how or even trying to follow these "BKM"s can cause your systems to run inefficiently or worse - have premature failures. 3) Incentives. Some incentives are only available to customers who use "approved contractors". Why? Because the agencies who are offering these incentives want the reassurance that the money they are awarding to your project will be well spent on an installation that will last you for years with worry-free operation. These programs typically also require the contractor to offer you a minimum "bumper-to-bumper" warranty, meaning that all parts and labor associated with warranty work are covered 100%. By buying and installing a solar kit on your own, you're generally going to find that you won't have access to some of the more lucrative incentives associated with solar installations. And giving up that kind of money can have a dramatic impact on the actual cost of the installation. So before you start counting on those cash incentives, you may want to read the fine print to determine whether or not you can apply for those on your own of if the agency in question requires you to use "approved contractors". 4) Cost-effective. While it may seem cheaper to install a solar kit yourself, you may end up spending more money in the long run. A professional contractor can help you find the best quality equipment at a reasonable price and avoid costly mistakes during installation. As previously mentioned, using a professional contractor can also help you qualify for incentives, rebates, and tax credits that may offset the cost of the installation. 5) The age-old adage of "you get what you pay for". Sometimes paying more up front seems counter-intuitive if you think you might be able to save 30% on the project with your DIY endeavors. I won't lie - I'd agree with you in some circumstances. And there will likely come a day when solar becomes a DIY endeavor. What does that day look like? Well, if I had to guess, I'd say that there won't be cash incentives available to perform solar installations, so having an "approved contractor" won't matter anymore. Further, I'd guess that the process will become substantially more "plug-and-play" for the equipment (meaning that they've thought of all of the code requirements for you and built out a design that already complies with all electrical codes for you - so you can't do it wrong!). If you're asking yourself what you get when you use a professional solar contractor, you've already partially answered your own question: a professional installation, backed up with all warranties plus an additional workmanship warranty from your contractor. So if your roof develops a leak, you get to call them to fix it! If the equipment fails, you get to call them to fix it! If anything sort of a force majeure event occurs, not only are you covered, but you'll be supported. This reasoning is largely what I personally use to pick our partners in this business. Yes - sometimes I pay more for parts or services, but on the other hand, I've also had the support of these vendors and distributors when we needed it. It just adds a layer of insurance to our operations. Ultimately, a solar kit can save you money on the front side. But once you strap on the harness and climb onto your roof to start the install, you may end up changing your mind. And this brings me to another challenge that we encounter several times a year: The customer who bought all of their own equipment, only to realize too late that they bit off more than they can chew - so to speak. We get this phone call at least once every six weeks: a customer begging us to help him/her complete their installation because they can't get it to work or it's harder than they thought or they didn't consider how to get a 70"x40" solar panel onto the roof (much less thirty of them!). Although we don't engage with these customers from a professional or financial perspective, I do try to calm them down and point them in a direction that might help them complete their endeavors. But, then they find themselves being charged hourly by a third-party electrician to finish their installation. And what did they end up with? An installation that didn't qualify for any local cash incentives, that ended up costing them nearly the same amount as it would have if they had hired a professional from the beginning. And what's worse? Many inverter manufacturers won't talk to the customers directly! That's right: the heart of your system is backed up by tech support that will only chat with licensed installers/electricians. Why would they do this? Because these manufacturers got tired of trying to troubleshoot DIY installations for unqualified homeowner-installed systems. So, they won't talk to the home-owners. This came as a shock to me actually: the first time I got onto a tech support line for a product and the message said: "If you're a homeowner calling to trouble-shoot your system, please hang up now and call your local installation company to assist you". That's right! They won't even take your call if you can't give them your licenses and contractor numbers. In the end, the kits sound too good to be true. And that's because they are for nearly 99% of the folks looking to buy them. There's a very small subset of individuals who can successfully install these systems at the levels demanded by warranties, codes, and complexity. If you're ready to talk about your needs and want to discuss how we can add more value to your project (than just being a parts supplier!) give us a call at (503) 857-0099 and let me EARN your partnership in this endeavor! Until next time, Josh Kopczynski

Have you ever found yourself telling a story - about something you know a TON about - only to see your "audience" looking back at you with that "1000-yard stare"? You lost them. But how did you lose them? Well...if you're like me, then about the time you started using technical terms and any kind of "industry-related" terms, they couldn't keep up. And that's the real challenge with learning to effectively communicate: keeping your ideas within reach of the average person who isn't a "specialist" like you are. Which is what brings me to today's discussion: Planning a Solar Transition in Portland, Oregon: 10 Key Considerations Before Embracing Solar Energy. The reason I'm writing this is because I find that (15 years later) I tend to take my industry knowledge for granted and just assume that our technology has seen enough adoption that my average customer just automatically knows (and is familiar with) the terms and semi-technical details that I gloss over without a second thought. Today's list is more about getting yourself ready to meet with us BEFORE you meet with us. What's the old saying? Knowing is 1/2 the battle. So - let's get into some of the basics - the things you should really try to understand before you jump into a solar installation: 1) Your Location and Climate - this is fairly important to think about. Your gut instinct is to think that the best locations for solar are the Southern parts of our country: California, Nevada, New Mexico, Texas, Florida, etc. In general - the reason most folks think this is the best location is the amount of sunlight these states get (and lack of rain). It's true - sunny days make more power. But in general - the best location in the US would have to be awarded to...Colorado. Why? Because the interesting thing about solar panels is this: the hotter they get, the lower their output is. Colorado has cold clear days - over 300 of them per year - hence the blue-ribbon for best in the US. Weather and location do play a role in your production - but the reality is this: A person in Oregon can install enough solar to generate all the power they need in a net metering year just the same as someone in Colorado can. What's the difference? Truly - it's the amount of solar panels you'll need to meet your goals in your area. Seattle residents would need more solar panels to generate the same amount of power as someone in Portland, Oregon would - simply because of the amount of cloudy days. 2) Your home's orientation and roof slope. Again - this is important, but if 15 years in this industry have taught me anything, it's that a shaded south facing roof will produce far LESS power than an unshaded east facing roof. Southern exposures ARE the best exposures for solar in the northern hemisphere, but ONLY if they aren't shaded. If I were to compare a West facing roof to a south facing roof and also to an east facing roof (and assume all of these roofs have ZERO shading), then the South roof would test out at (seeing) 99% of the available sunlight...yet...the west facing roof isn't too far behind, testing out at 85% sunlight visibility. The east facing roof is very close to the west roof, testing out at 84% sunlight visibility. So if you have a very shaded south roof, but very un-shaded east and west roofs, those would be the better choices to the south roof. What am I saying? I'm saying it's not good to assume that you should only buy solar panels if you have a south facing roof. Nothing could be further from the truth - and we have 100's of customers to back that up. 3) Your energy needs - both now and in the future. Knowing HOW you live in your home and how you use energy there is very important to both analyzing the past usage and trying to predict future usage. Things to consider for the future are: kiddo's - are they moving out in a few years? If so, your energy usage will drop. Retirement - are you or your partner gonna hang up your spurs and sip lemonade on the front porch all day long (in the near future)? If so, your energy usage will increase because you'll be home more (at that time) than you are currently (while you're working at your j.o.b.). Electric vehicles - this is a big one - and for most folks, it's only a matter of time before you buy one. Because of that, it's likely that your home's usage will increase (potentially substantially - 20% for one vehicle - 40% for two - based on 10,000kWh/year used). Think about these things and be ready to ask tough questions about this because it will determine how many solar panels you "need" to hit your personal goals. 4) Your budget. This one is (to me) an interesting thing to consider - and here's why: most of our customers already pay monthly for their electricity. When considering solar (and their budget), rarely does it occur to my customers that the money they're spending to purchase electricity will decrease, if not delete altogether. What this means is that the money you're already budgeting for electricity can now be used to pay off a loan for your solar equipment. Yes - this part is VERY true. Once you own the power plant, you also own the power it produces. No more rate increases. Just a loan with the same payment, month in, month out. No surprises with a high electric bill during a hot summer month where you cranked up the A/C. No more regrets for having the "Christmas Vacation" home with lights that can be seen from space. Nope. Your solar panels will generate the power you need. And you'll be paying OFF a loan to help you own them outright someday. Here's a fun fact to consider: a solar loan has an end date - when it's paid off and you own the equipment completely. An electric bill never stops coming. EVER. So, although your budget is very important, try to not forget that this investment has an end date and that the money you're spending on electricity today will be repurposed as a loan payment for your solar equipment (that should be generating the same amount of power for your home every year). 5) Your roof's condition. This one is one we cannot emphasize enough. Your roof should have a verifiable 10 YEARS of roof life left if you plan on installing solar panels on it. Why? Because the labor and materials needed to uninstall and reinstall your existing solar panels (when you go to re-roof your home) is going to SHOCK you. (not literally - but it's not a pleasant number). It will add literally THOUSANDS of dollars to your reroof costs. So - why 10 years? Well... one thing we've learned from this industry is that solar panels tend to extend the roof life of the roofs they are on. Why? Because the most damaging environmental thing to your home is: the sun. That's right! Sunlight will degrade the south roofs long before moss, mold, and lichen will degrade the north roof of your home. In general - it's your south roofs that wear out fastest. And because the sun is always slightly south of us (here in North America), we find that the southern exposures of your roofs do indeed wear out sooner than the east or west faces. When you place a barrier (ie: solar panels) between your roof and the sun, you end up inadvertently extending the life of those roofs with solar panels on them. If you need a new roof, consider doing it before you install solar panels - you'll thank us! 6) The cost of electricity in your area. This one is becoming less of a reason (to not install solar) than it used to be. What do I mean by this? Well, in years past, we've seen some of the local electrical companies offering electricity at such low rates that installing a solar array became less about savings and more about leaving a legacy of renewable energy for the future. These utility areas contained the "gotta want it" kind of customers. In these cases, the net cost per kilowatt-hour of self-generated electricity (from solar panels) was higher than the cost of electricity you could buy locally. These small co-op utilities aren't the norm though. They are the "outliers" insomuch as the price of their power is concerned, and with ever-rising costs, even these "low cost" utilities are showing prices that now make solar "make sense" for their customers. On the other side of this equation are the majority of home-owners, who's cost of electricity (per kilowatt hour) is actually higher (currently) than the averaged cost of electricity for a solar array. This is where we see most of our customers: seeing some savings today and a lot of savings "tomorrow" (ie: the future). Whatever side of this equation you find yourself on here, it's important to know why you want to install solar: Is it personal? Is it environmentally motivated? Is it to increase your home's value? Is it to save money over the long term? Whatever your reason, at least know how much you're currently paying for electricity. 7) Incentives/Rebates/Credits. This is usually why you'll call: you heard something somewhere about the HUGE incentives to have solar installed on your home, amiright? :) These things ARE important, not to mention so...so nice. In your case, the Federal government is going to award you a 30% tax credit to install solar on your home or business. This means that (so long as you pay your taxes throughout the year), you'll likely end up getting a refund equal to 30% of the cost of your project come tax season next year. But...are there any other local incentives? Sometimes yes...sometimes no. I can say with a VERY HIGH degree of knowledge that local and state incentives come and go all the time. And when they're gone, they're gone. So - should you wait for these incentives to come back? I guess you should also ask yourself if you think you should wait for the "brass ring" to come back (and for those who aren't old enough to know what I mean by the "brass ring" - here you go: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brass_ring). My point here is this: I've seen local and state incentives come and go more times than I can count. What I can say with a high degree of knowledge is that none of these incentives are larger than they were a few years ago. So waiting for these incentives to increase (in my opinion) would be fruitless. A few examples: when I started installing solar panels, Energy Trust of Oregon was giving home owners up to $20,000 of money to install solar panels (our price per watt as also hovering around $9/watt as opposed to less than $4/watt today). Today - Energy Trust of Oregon offers most customers $400 per home. A second example: From 2009-2017, the Oregon Department of Energy offered home owners (who installed solar on their homes) $6,000 of tax credit for their taxes. Between 2018 and 2022, they offered nothing. Today - and for only a short time, they are again offering up to $5,000 per home owner - with the average home owner receiving about $3,000. And those funds are limited and will soon exhaust themselves. Will they offer more in the future? My experience says that they might offer some form of incentive in the future, but as solar adoption increases, these incentives (provided by the state and federal government) tend to decrease or fully expire as they are no longer needed to encourage people to adopt this tech. Eventually - there won't be any more subsidies to install solar panels on your home - because the tech will stand on its own without need of government assistance (example: the government used to give tax credits to car buyers who bought hybrid cars, but as the price of gas increased, the value of owning a hybrid car became self evident and there was no longer a need to offer incentives for these cars - solar is heading down that path as well). 8) Ongoing maintenance costs. We touched on this somewhat above when we talked about making sure your roof still has 10 years of usable life left in it. In general, solar panels and their associated pieces of equipment are maintenance free. Do you need to wash your solar panels? You decide: https://www.dpisolar.com/post/solar-panel-maintenance-fact-or-fiction. Does your equipment need regular service? You decide: https://www.dpisolar.com/post/part-deux-solar-system-maintenance. In general, Mother Nature does a pretty fair job at keeping your solar panels clean so long as they have at least 10° of tilt and your area receives at least 12" of rainfall annually. As for the equipment, your racking systems will have a limited lifetime warranty. If we install it like we're supposed to, it will last as long as you want it to. The inverters will likely eventually fail - but if you have a great warranty (12 years minimum on most of our stuff), you won't end up paying for the replacement equipment. That leaves the solar panels - and these babies last for decades. Literally. So long as they are making up the power you need to live in your home, then there's likely no reason to ever replace them. Your ongoing maintenance costs for these products SHOULD be minimal. And depending on whether or not you decide to buy an annual service plan where we come out and inspect, test, and re-commission your system each year, it's unlikely you'll have any other significant ongoing expenses with these products. Generally speaking - this part of the discussion should be fairly minimal, but it's definitely something to consider if you find your property is in an area where regular cleaning is recommended (high pollen areas, gravel roads that throw up dust, etc.). 9) Warranties for your equipment. This one is not as straight forward as it sounds. As someone who's seen the warranties on these products evolve over the years, I can say clearly that some of these warranties actually mean something while others...don't. Which warranty doesn't really mean much? The 25 year production guarantee/warranty that EVERY solar panel sold in Oregon offers. This warranty says something similar to this: we guarantee that your solar panels will be producing at least 82% (or higher) power 25 years from the date of installation. So, why doesn't this mean much? Well, because the first solar panels sold commercially in this country (Bell Laboratories, 1958) saw their solar panels (with 1958 tech, 1958 manufacturing methods, 1958 materials) last 40 years and still produce 82% of their rated power - 40 years later. The only way a modern solar panel manufacturer can screw this one up is to apply significant negligence during the manufacturing process. Otherwise, you guessed it: nearly every reputable solar panel manufacturer will never need to worry about this warranty (it's THAT unlikely that they'll ever have a claim here). The more important warranty would be the manufacturing defect warranty for your solar panels. Nearly all of our offerings have a 25 year defect warranty - and all of our manufacturers have been in business that long (or longer). Most inverter manufacturers will offer a 10 or 12 year defect warranty, and trust me - that's likely enough. The reason here is that if your inverters fail in year 12, the replacement tech is likely to be very far advanced from where it was 12 years earlier - not to mention less expensive (typically). Your racking systems are typically coming with a limited lifetime warranty for their application. That leaves your installer warranty. As of 2023, DPI Solar is offering our customers a 10 year warranty on their installations. So if anything fails, not only will the manufacturer likely cover the cost of the replacement equipment, but DPI Solar will be there to replace it with no additional labor charges. Some of the "gotchas" you'll find in a lot of warranties? The most important one to look for is how much the manufacturer will pay to have a company replace their defective equipment. I've seen most of these warranties cap their maximum out of pocket expenses (paid to the techs who will perform the service) at $250. This is a very small amount of money and if your installer is out of business and won't be there to replace the defective equipment on their dime, that leaves you paying the balance due after the initial $250 is paid to the techs performing the service. 10) Your Installer - This one is where I think you really need to dig in. Things to look for: how long have they been in business in YOUR state/area. New installers come and go all to regularly. Just because they thrived in California or Utah does not mean they'll make it here in Oregon. We used to keep a list of new installers we would hear about from our customers. That list quickly grew very large - with a big X next to each one as time went by. Not only is it important to see that your preferred installer has been in business in YOUR state/area for a few years, but you should also check to make sure they are truly a licensed contractor (and not just a sales group who tries to sub-contract their installs to the lowest bidder). How can you tell? Search the Oregon CCB platform for your installer's company. You should see minimal (hopefully ZERO) complaints against them there, plus you'll be able to make sure they are licensed, bonded, and insured. Next - check the state agencies that want to give you money for your project (Energy Trust of Oregon, Oregon Department of Energy) and make sure your contractor is on their list of approved contractors (there's nothing that makes me more sad than to hear about a customer who was promised all sorts of incentives, only to realize too late that their contractor wasn't part of the programs they said they were). Finally - reviews - this one is a bit subjective for me, because we don't beg or pay for reviews. But someone with a lot of reviews in just a short amount of time - buyer beware. Think: Amazon. When you read reviews that say: I just got my product, but haven't tried it yet (Five Stars!) - that's not exactly noteworthy - and more than likely, that person was somehow compensated for their review. Look for honest, long-term reviews of your installer. If someone had something negative to say, you'll find it. If not, you'll likely not see anything alarming either - which is good! In the end, your installer is the one group of people you'll lean on to learn about your system, be there when things go sideways, and support you when you want to grow or add batteries to your system. In my experience, you want to choose local groups who have at least 5 years of installation experience behind them. Well... I could probably go on for another 10 things, but this list is a great start for you! Call us - we want to be your partner in this process Josh

We are getting this question a lot lately. In general, the question goes like this: Customer: "Josh, since I have solar panels on my home, can I use them to generate power when the electric grid fails?" Josh: "Not unless you have a special setup" (ie: hybrid inverters, batteries, charge controllers, etc). The real answer is: It depends on the type of solar array you are using and how it is configured. If you have a standard grid-tied solar system, which is the most common type of solar array, it will not work when the power fails. This is because grid-tied solar systems are designed to automatically shut off during a power outage to protect utility workers who may be repairing power lines. This requirement is typically referred to as "UL 1741 Compliant" or "anti-islanding technology". What this really means is that the power companies don't want your home to be an "island of power" in the middle of a dead power grid. Since your grid-tied solar panels can push power back onto the utility grid (generating power credits via net metering), it's important to recognize that without a UL 1741 compliant inverter, your system could push power onto a dead utility grid and inadvertently electrocute a lineman who is working on the power lines, trying to restore power to the area. If you would like your existing solar panels to generate power for your home (or business) when the power fails, then the path forward would involve adding a battery backup system to your property. Without a battery backup system, the solar panels will not be able to generate power during a power outage. This is because the inverters need to "see" grid-related frequency in order to stay online. A battery backup system will artificially create this frequency for the inverters while also isolating the entire system from the power grid (thus abiding by the UL 1741 requirements). Once the grid power is restored, the battery backup system will allow the solar panels to return back to their grid-tied operation (i.e.: net metering). On the other hand, if you already have a solar system with battery backup, the solar array will continue to work during a power outage. The battery backup system allows the excess energy generated by the solar panels to be stored in batteries for later use. When the power goes out, the battery backup system will automatically switch on, and the stored energy will be used to power your home. It's important to note that the size of your solar array and battery backup system will determine how much power you can generate and how long you can power your home during a power outage. Additionally, you may need to configure your solar system and battery backup system to ensure that it can handle the increased load during a power outage. It's recommended that you work with a qualified solar installer to design and install a solar system with battery backup that meets your specific needs. Thanks for reading "Will My Solar Panels work in a power outage (without battery backup)?" If you'd like to learn more about adding batteries to your existing system, give us a call!

UPDATED November 2023 - Changes: The original article states a 14% rate increase. The actual approved amount for residential customers came back at 17%. Ever heard the phrase: "keep your ear to the ground"? The metaphorical idea is that if you put your ear on the ground, you can hear the vibrations of people or events moving before they become visible, hence by keeping your ear to the ground, you can anticipate changes or important news that may affect your business or personal life. Well, that's what we do here: We try to "keep our ear to the ground" for current news and, when necessary, bring it up here. Well folks - this is news-worthy: Below you'll find an excerpt from PGE's website, discussing their proposed rate increase for calendar year 2024 - and it's MASSIVE. Here's the link to their website: https://portlandgeneral.com/rate-case. Below you'll see what they wrote: On Feb. 15, PGE filed a General Rate Case with the Oregon Public Utility Commission for prices expected to be effective in 2024. This filing is the first step in a transparent public process allowing the OPUC to work with PGE in determining new customer prices. Customer prices are approved by the OPUC after an extensive evaluation, including a public hearing, which considers a range of factors including current prices, inflation and other cost increases, and the necessary investments needed to provide reliable and resilient power to customers in the region. PGE is proposing an average price increase of 14%, this includes an average 4.5% increase for fuel and power costs and a 9.5% increase covering capital investments and operations and maintenance such as updating aging infrastructure, more resilient transmission lines and ongoing safety management by our crews. This process to determine a final price with the OPUC can take up to a year; additional information on what to expect over the coming months can be found on the OPUC website . What’s driving this increase: Power costs: Power costs have exponentially risen driven by high fuel costs, inflation, extreme weather events and market volatility. Capital investments around upgrading the electric grid: We are investing in infrastructure and technology upgrades and replacing aging assets to create a grid that is more resilient in the face of extreme weather. Investments focused on grid security and reliability. The investments we make result in better service for our customers, including fewer power interruptions and increased reliability for non-emitting resources. What's this mean for ratepayers like us? We get to bear the brunt of these costs (on top of everything else) and it just keeps chipping away at our household incomes, commercial revenues, or non-profit operating costs. This is nothing short of historic - and this ISN'T the kind of history any of us want to see. PGE raised their rates roughly 8% for calendar year 2022. They then "upped the ante" in 2023 by stacking a 12% rate increase on top of the previous year. And now we're staring down the barrel of another locked-and-loaded gun: another 17% rate increase for next year. And you thought I was teasing you when we ask you to "lock in your utility rates by owning the power plant" or "use your current monthly electric bill budget to pay for a solar array instead". Guys (and gals): I'm not teasing, nor am I writing this for some self-serving aspect (ok - maybe a little, but c'mon - I own a solar installation company for crying out loud!). But deeply, I feel (said Yoda). I do feel strongly and deeply that any of us can stop the rate increases by owning the power plant (instead of buying from the middle-man (aka: the electric company). Any of my customers who currently own and operate their own solar panels can attest: they don't care how much PGE is charging for power - because they no longer buy it from PGE. Still think it's time to wait and see? Let me share a story: In roughly 2011 I was introduced to two young men who wanted me to invest in a virtual currency business. They had seen the future and it was digital currency. Think I'm wrong? Just look at that little magic piece of plastic you wave around at the grocery store when you're paying. That's right - it's not real cash - but it represents what the bank says you have. You're already using virtual currency - whether you believe it or not. I digress... So, I took a meeting with these two young fellas and we chatted about what they were doing. I truly grasped what they were saying. I emphatically agreed that they were right - the world is moving towards a cashless society. All these guys wanted was for me to invest into two "mining" computers that would resolve the blockchain and mine this mysterious "coin". They were averaging about 10 per day, but my investment would yield an additional 10 per day, making me a doubler of their operation. I would receive 1/2 of the "coins" they mined. I just needed to fork over $10k. My response: "I totally agree with you and I do see this future, but how do you know that THIS particular "coin" is THE ONE? The "coin"? You guessed it - BitCoin. Did I miss out? Yup - but no regrets here - I can't mourn chances I didn't take. But... I can learn from them. So - what's the parallel? It's this: we sometimes regret waiting for the "right time", not realizing that it actually IS the right time. Can you afford a solar installation? YES - you're already buying power every month from someone else. Every month - you get a bill. And unless you didn't pay that bill, your lights are still on. We believe it just makes sense for our customers to use that same money towards a loan that will help you afford your solar panels for your home. Once you buy them, they're YOURS - as is the energy they produce. So instead of sending money out to a middle man who resells you power that they purchased from Bonneville dam, why not spend that money on your own power plant (that also adds value to your home). That way, when these huge rate increases start hammering your neighbors, you can let them know that you didn't wait for "the right time" because you realized that any time is the right time to start saving money, stop the rate increases, and add value to your home. Call us - we're ready to help you with Upcoming Changes: Portland General Electric's Proposed 17% Rate Increase for 2024!

Well... Hello again! In the last few weeks, I've been reading and researching if and how your EV's battery can be used to power your home in the event of a power outage. Turns out, the answer is yes...with a giant "but"... Read on to learn more! The question: Can you use your EV Battery to run your home during a power outage? Yes, you can use your electric vehicle (EV) battery to run your home during a power outage, provided your EV is equipped with bi-directional charging capabilities and you have a bi-directional charger installed at your home. Bi-directional charging allows energy to flow in both directions between the EV and the grid, which enables you to use the stored energy in your EV's battery to power your home during a power outage. To use your EV battery as a backup power source, you would need to connect the bi-directional charger to your home's electrical system, and then connect your EV to the charger. When the power goes out, you can then use the energy stored in your EV's battery to power your home until the power is restored. It's important to note that the amount of energy stored in your EV's battery may not be enough to power your home for an extended period of time, so you may still need to use a backup generator or other backup power source in some cases. Additionally, bi-directional charging is still a relatively new technology, and not all EVs and charging stations are equipped with these capabilities. Overall, while using your EV battery to run your home during a power outage is possible, it's important to consider the limitations and requirements of bi-directional charging before investing in this technology. Other things to consider are whether or not your chosen EV has the firmware installed that will allow it to deploy itself as a battery-backup for your home. Below are a few types of bi-directional EV charging styles (with descriptions of what each acronym means). If you're considering using your EV battery as a source of backup power, you will want to first ensure that your EV has one of the below-described acronyms associated with itself. If not, it's possible that using your EV battery as a backup power source might not be an available option at this time: V2G: V2G stands for Vehicle-to-Grid, and refers to a system in which energy can flow in both directions between an EV and the grid. This allows EVs to act as both a consumer and supplier of energy, which can help to balance the grid and reduce the need for large power plants. V2H: V2H stands for Vehicle-to-Home, and refers to a system in which energy can flow in both directions between an EV and a homeowner's home. This allows homeowners to use the stored energy in their EV's battery to power their home, reducing their reliance on the grid. V2L: V2L stands for Vehicle-to-Load, and refers to a system in which energy can flow in both directions between an EV and a load, such as a battery or an electric appliance. This allows EVs to act as a source of energy, which can be used to power other devices. Finally, Bi-directional electric vehicle (EV) charging can bring several benefits to homeowners who have EVs. Here are some of the ways that bi-directional charging can benefit homeowners: Lower energy costs: Homeowners with bi-directional EV charging can use the stored energy in their EV's battery to power their home during times when electricity costs are high, such as during peak hours. This can help to reduce the amount of energy they need to purchase from the grid and can lower their overall energy costs. Increased energy independence: With bi-directional EV charging, homeowners have access to stored energy in their EV's battery, which can be used to power their home during power outages or other emergency situations. This can increase their energy independence and provide them with a backup source of power. Improved energy efficiency: Bi-directional EV charging can help to improve the overall efficiency of the energy system by enabling energy to flow in both directions between the EV and the grid. This can help to reduce energy waste and improve the overall performance of the grid. Potential income streams: In some cases, homeowners with bi-directional EV charging may be able to sell excess energy stored in their EV's battery back to the grid, generating an additional income stream. Overall, bi-directional EV charging can bring a range of benefits to homeowners, including lower energy costs, increased energy independence, improved energy efficiency, and potential income streams. These benefits can help to make EVs and renewable energy a more attractive option for homeowners, and support the transition to a more sustainable and resilient energy system. Currently, DPI Solar is exploring partnerships with two different Bi-Directional EV Charging manufacturers. Once we select the brand we feel will deliver the best experience to our customers, we will update our blog with a write-up and real-world experience of that product for you to consider. * A WARNING * Due to the way that bi-directional EV charging CAN work with your home, it's important to understand that this is a very new technology and should only be installed by licensed electricians who are coordinating and familiar with your local electrical company's guidelines for installation of said technology. A critical safety component of these chargers is that they meet UL1741 guidelines - meaning that they won't discharge their power onto a "dead" utility grid. All currently installed solar inverters are designed to disconnect themselves from the utility grid in the event of a power outage. This prevents your home from becoming an "island of power" in the middle of a "dead" power grid. This safety feature helps to protect the utility workers (linemen) from being electrocuted when working on lines they assume to be "dead" (de-energized). If you do choose to deploy a bi-directional EV charger, it is of the upmost importance that you do so with full compliance of your local electric company's guidelines as well as any and all current electrical code requirements to prevent your system from accidentally energizing a "dead" (de-energized) power grid. Much like a backup generator must not send its power onto a "dead" utility grid, so must you also avoid doing the same with a bi-directional EV charger coupled to your EV's battery during a blackout - for your safety and the safety of those linemen who are working to restore your power at your home. Hope you've enjoyed reading "Leveraging EV Batteries with Solar Panels" as much as I've enjoyed researching it! Call us when you're ready to take the next steps on your solar (and EV charger) journey!

When looking for a solar contractor, there are some important factors to consider to ensure you choose a qualified and experienced professional who can deliver a high-quality solar installation. Here are some key things to pay attention to: License and certification: Look for a solar contractor who is licensed and certified by a recognized industry organization, including your relevant state agencies. In Oregon, this will include the Oregon Department of Energy, Energy Trust of Oregon, and most importantly: Oregon CCB (our CCB # is 185494). Insurance and Bonding: No matter what kind of construction you're considering, always make sure that the contractor is license and bonded in the state you are performing the work. You can also check this at the state's contractor licensing board. Experience: Choose a contractor with experience installing solar systems similar to the one you have in mind. DPI Solar has been installing solar on homes and businesses since 2009. We've been there, done it (in general!) Reputation: You're shopping, and you'll use the reviews available, right? Well, that's where DPI Solar does well - but we don't chase reviews. Maybe we should? Honestly - we have them and they're great - but we don't ask every customer for a review - mainly because we're busy working on projects. No joke. We don't have a ton of reviews after 15 years, but therein is something to consider: we've been doing this for 15 years - if we were doing something wrong, you'd know by checking the CCB, BBB, or elsewhere. I'm not proud to say we lack reviews, but in the same breath, how many people reading this actively review their products that they purchase? Not nearly as many as who don't, amiright? It's not an excuse - but if you need references - we got'em! Equipment and materials: Make sure the contractor uses high-quality equipment and materials, and ask about the warranty on the equipment and components. Let me say this about that: Warranty work will put ANY business OUT of business. This is why DPI Solar really tries to offer only high quality products from companies who have a solid track record AND solid financials - that's right - I look deeper than just the product they sell: are they solvent? have they ever filed for debt restructuring? Can they do research and development with their own money or do they need "funding rounds" after 10 years to push their products forward? If I find that anything seems "off" about a decent manufacturer, you'll likely not see them represented in our portfolio of product offerings. Site assessment: The contractor should perform a thorough site assessment to determine the best location and orientation for your solar panels, as well as the most appropriate type of solar system for your needs. This is what sets DPI Solar apart from the "zoom meeting" sales people or the "quote by phone" companies: we don't and won't deprive you of our time and effort. You NEED a solid site assessment to truly model your home's solar performance, not to mention whether or not you'll need structural upgrades to the framing members of your home to achieve a building permit for the project. Don't settle here; demand an on-site evaluation. If you don't, you're almost 100% guaranteed to see a "change-order" requested after construction starts. What's a change-order, you ask? Well, it's when your solar contractor missed something during the bidding process that ends up raising the cost of the installation. They've already got you on the hook and are installing - so they know they've got you cornered. Now they'll come at you with a change-order, telling you that it's going to cost a lot more to install your system - and since they're already started, just "sign here". DPI Solar looks for the "gotchas" that can trigger a change order - and we've already included anything we see in your bid. Still think that saving a couple hundred (or thousand dollars) on a "quote by phone or zoom call" was worth it? You won't when the other guys ask you for an extra $5,000 for something they should have caught before they sent you a formal bid. Financial options: Consider the contractor's financial options, such as leasing, power purchase agreements, or financing. Make sure you understand the terms and conditions of each option. 2023 has ushered in a new realm for financing: the "less than electric bill payment for solar" loans are no longer a thing with Federal borrowing rates hovering near 5%. DPI Solar truly only recommends one lender that has highly transparent fees and a solid, traditional loan structure. Don't be a sucker for a low interest rate! Ask one of our team to show you what's behind the curtain on these too-good-to-be true loans. If we won't use 'em, why on earth would we ask you to? Customer service: Pay attention to the contractor's level of customer service, including their responsiveness to questions and concerns, and their availability for ongoing maintenance and support. Will your chosen contractor be there for you in five years? Honestly - probably not. DPI Solar is one of the oldest solar contractors in the state of Oregon. We've made it through the "rough patches" and lived to tell the tale. Most solar contractors are either not really contractors (they're just sales people who sub-contract all of the labor) or they don't last longer than 5 years in the industry. It's kinda a brutal world in this realm - but we've got staying power that most don't or won't ever have. Cost: Get multiple bids and compare the cost and services offered by each contractor. Make sure to understand the payment terms and ask about any potential hidden fees or additional costs. What will you find with DPI Solar? We aren't the "low cost leader" - and we never will be. We also aren't the "niche-market" high priced operator who wants to sell a few, high profit projects a year. We're your workhorse in the industry. We want a lot of projects to keep our team busy and we aren't trying to "retire" off the profits of your project on its own. That means that our pricing falls well below market average, but above the "cheapest" bids you'll get. When you choose DPI Solar, you're getting a stellar installation from a highly experienced team, at a price that will make you feel like you spent a lot more than you did. By paying attention to these key factors, you can choose a solar contractor who will provide you with a high-quality installation, a positive experience, and a long-lasting, reliable solar system. In the end - I offer these nine key items for your research, but if you still only made one call, DPI Solar should be that call! Thanks for reading "Selecting a Solar Contractor in Portland, Oregon" and have a great weekend (yes - I wrote this on a Friday!) Josh

Well howdy! (Yes - I'm from a small population western state, and truly - we do use the word 'howdy' - laugh it up!) What we have available today for a discussion is the question all perspective solar purchasers ask: "HOW MANY SOLAR PANELS DO I NEED?" Read on to learn how to calculate your solar panel needs. You'd think that a company that's been doing the solar thing for over a decade would just be able to drop a number on you and it would be on the mark, right? (if I had a camera recording my face while I'm writing this - you'd have seen me look up and to the right - remembering all the times I've been asked this question - and then you'd see me make the "yikes!" face where you see genuine concern/surprise on my face and a look that says: "how do I answer this without sounding like a completely self-serving salesman?") Yup. This is THAT kind of question - it's tough. Yes - there are some general (and I mean VERY general) "truths" that we can apply to MOST property owners that might allow us to get "in the ballpark" of a guess as to how many solar panels you "need" - and that's the real word I want to discuss here: NEED If you were to ask me how many solar panels any property owner NEEDS, I'd tell you that you NEED enough to offset 100% of their electric bill, per net metering year. And there's that all-to-common term you'll find pop up in blog after blog (that I write): Net Metering (here's the link if you're not familiar: https://www.dpisolar.com/post/what-is-net-metering) A net metering year is the 12 month cycle from when the electric company starts allowing you to roll-over your excess power generation to the following months. Around here, it starts on April 1 and ends on March 31 of the following year. If I were to look at 12 of your electric bills, I'd be able to figure out (based on your current electrical usage) how many kilowatt-hours you've used during that span of time. Our goal - when designing a solar array for your property is to provide a design that generates 100% of this power (measured in kilowatt-hours - or kWh - and NOT in Dollars ($)). Because you live in or operate your property in a unique (to you) way, your usage over the course of a year is different than someone else with a similar property. Why? Well if we look at residential solar, it's pretty easy to see how this could be different: 1) Do you have multiple people living in the home 24/7? (a family) 2) Are you retired and spend most of your days at home (rather than at a 9-5 job)? 3) Do you have anything special about your home? (a hot tub, an electric sauna, an outdoor water feature that runs 24/7)? 4) Do you hobby in Indoor Gardening (that uses a TON of lights and electricity)? 5) Do you have an EV (electric vehicle)? 6) And on, and on, and on... If you look at the above list, these are just a few items that can change your electric bill (for better or for worse). Some of these things are permanent (like family) - and others can come and go (like an EV or a water feature) - and yet even others might only see seasonal spikes - like air conditioning and electric heating. What if you have a well for drinking water? Well, you pay to operate that well - as opposed to urban homes that typically have city water and thus no costs associated with a well to pump the water. Heck - even the amount of miles per year you drive your EV can make a decent difference in your electric bill as compared to other "standard" users. The point I'm trying to make here is that there's no one specific formula that lets us accurately estimate how many solar panels you NEED. ( (are the words "accurately estimate" oxymorons when used this way? Pretty sure they are. Ironic, huh?) You're saying: "All that I told the other companies was my average monthly electric bill," right? Wanna know a secret? I can count on less than 10 fingers (and/or toes) how many customers send me a true average electric bill. Wanna know something else? Some of you are saying: "Well, I'm on "equal pay" so that my bill is already averaged by the electric company, so I know that the average is spot-on" - but (shocker!) the Electric company errs on the side of caution when they estimate your annual equal-pay amount. What I mean by this is that they (the electric company) EXPECT you to use more power than they're selling you with that equal-pay bill. Because of this, they actually build in a "buffer" of cost for the "equal pay" amount so that they never get LESS money than they expect to sell you (in kWh) per year. When the calendar year ends, some of you (who've used less power than they factored in for your payment) get a refund or credit on your January bill. This is because they are required to audit your bills and make sure they didn't overcharge you on equal pay. What's my point with all of this electric bill mumbo-jumbo? It's this: even with a high degree of certainty on your monthly expense for your electric bill, using the dollar ($) amount from your electric bill won't give us an accurate accounting of how many KILOWATT-HOURS you use per month or year. This is due to the litany of other charges (and sometimes credits) that are spelled out on the second (back) page of your electric bill. From the basic charge that is standard per month just to have the electric meter on your home to the extra charges for transmission and distribution that aren't linear in their calculation - things change on every single bill we see - and because of that, there's honestly no one single, guaranteed fool-proof method to use anything other than the actual kilowatt-hours (shown on each of your electric bills) to figure out how many kilowatt-hours you're buying per year with from your electric company. And this brings us full circle to the question of NEED. And as previously stated, your need is based on how many kilowatt-hours you use per year currently. But! There are many OTHER factors that come into play with coming up with an accurate design that will generate how many panels you NEED to offset 100% of your electric bill: 1) The tilt of your solar panels (anything other than 32° is going to be less than ideal here in NW Oregon) - your roof faces each have their own specific slope/tilt - which can't be changed 2) The orientation (to south) that the solar panels face (180° is considered ideal in the norther hemisphere) - your roof faces each have their own specific orientation - which can't be changed 3) The shading on the solar panels (at their proposed locations on your property) If you have the perfect tilt, orientation, and shading profile that makes your solar panels 99.9% effective at seeing the sun (on your property) then you'll need LESS solar panels than someone else whose home was built with roofs facing different directions than yours. If we assume that the two homes in this paragraph have exactly the same amount of usage, it doesn't mean that they both need the exact same amount of solar panels. In fact - the home with the "perfect" roof space for solar will use NEED less solar panels to generate the same amount of power that the other home does in the same net metering year. So...we've now explored just a few things that change the number of "How many solar panels do I NEED" - right? We now know that the first data point we need is your usage - in kilowatt-hours. We also know that the next data point we need is an accurate performance model of the roof spaces you want your solar panels on. With these two sets of data points, DPI Solar sales advisors can give you a REAL accounting of how many solar panels you NEED - and a price to boot. This is why we want to visit your property in person before we throw numbers around: maybe a tree that once shaded the solar array location is no longer there? Maybe you have an addition to your property that has a better roof space than what is shown on the standard mapping programs. Maybe you want a ground mount after realizing that you don't have enough roof space to meet your "needs". There's a lot of maybe's here. What we aim to do is turn those maybe's into answers that give you a true, transparent view of your solar project, provided by our trained sales team. You'll find (after visiting with one of them) that they generally go much deeper and ask more detailed questions during their visit (than you had with one of the other solar companies out there). Our team is great and we want to show you. Is there a way we can get an idea of how many panels you NEED? Sure - but it's a "best guess" and if you were to ask me (when I'm considering spending thousands of dollars on an investment) if I'm ok with a "best guess" - I'm not. And I don't expect you to be either. So - we live by the age old wisdom: good information in will give us good answers; bad information in will give us bad answers. And we don't like giving bad answers. And you shouldn't accept anything less than a detailed analysis with the data points to back it up! Let us know if your ready to figure out how many solar panels you need? Thanks for reading! Josh DPI Solar 503-857-0099

Hello again! If you're reading this, thank you! What do we have on our discussion plate today? How about winter weather and solar production - or more specifically, what your electric bill will look like during your first winter with solar panels on your home. So, we've discussed net metering in a previous post on this blog, but if you need a refresher, look here: https://www.dpisolar.com/post/what-is-net-metering To refresh your memory, net metering is a system of bill credits that turns your over-production of energy (expressed in kilowatt-hours - or kWh) into roll-over credits for you to use throughout the net metering year. A net metering year is the 12 month time-frame that your electric company allows you to roll-over and use up these credits. In Oregon, the typical net metering year starts in April and ends the following March. During the months of April through October, your system is likely to significantly over-produce energy, which in turn results in substantial "roll-over" kWh credits for you to use up in the shorter, rainier days of winter. As the days get shorter and rainier (typically November through February), your solar array's production falls off significantly (when compared to your summertime production). It's during these shorter days and low production months that your net-metering credits kick in, making up for the shortfalls of monthly solar production with roll-over credits generated during the summer months. This process is how you can still maintain that minimum monthly bill from the electric company while seeing lower production during the winter months. Well, now that we have revisited the net metering program function, let's talk about your very first year with solar panels on your home, shall we? Depending on WHEN your system officially goes "live" and "online" with the electric company will determine how much "roll-over" credit you'll accumulate before winter. This is VERY important to understand, because what we try to explain to our customers is that solar and solar generation is a marathon (not a sprint) and that the benefits are long term. What we are hoping to impart with this statement is this: Your first winter with solar panels is LIKELY to be better than the years before (without solar on your property) - yet you are LIKELY to run out of roll-over credits long before the sunny days of spring and summer return. So using this explanation, let's explore an example of how your solar will work out for you when your system gets brought online on July 1 (of a given year): The months of July, August, and September are all likely to live up to your dreams of a minimum electric bill. October will likely be a month where you'll use some of the roll-over credits (that your system generated during the previous three months) to keep your monthly electric bill at the minimum charge. Depending on how much roll-over credit your system was able to create (in the shortened time frame it was online before winter), your credits MIGHT be enough to keep November's bill at the minimum charge but... By the time December rolls around, it's possible (if not likely) that you've exhausted the limited amount of roll-over credits you generated during your brief solar summer season. What does this mean for the months of December, January, and February (and maybe even earlier - November as well)? It means that you're still likely to see a smaller electric bill from your electric company during these months (because even though the sunshine is in limited supply, it still does shine during these months, though less so and with less intensity due to cloud cover, shorter winter days and winter weather in general). How much smaller, you ask? Well, to be honest - your first December, January, and February electric bills MIGHT be 10%-20% less than they were the previous year, but by no means are they going to be even close to the "minimum charge" bills you came to expect during the summer months when your system first went online. DON'T PANIC!!! THERE'S LITERALLY NOTHING WRONG WITH YOUR SYSTEM! We use active monitoring to "watch" your system's performance and we compare your system's output to others in your area to make sure nothing is amiss. We don't need to send a tech, nor do we need to reset your system. This is normal for your first year with solar panels! It just means that you didn't have enough time during the sunnier, longer days of spring, summer and fall to accumulate sufficient roll-over credits to carry you through your FIRST winter season with solar panels. By the time you hit March (in most years), the sun will come back out from hibernation and longer days will help your system generate sufficient power to offset most (if not all of March's electric bill). Come April, your system will hit its stride (for years to come) and you'll start accumulating those coveted roll-over credits that you missed out on in your first, brief summer and fall when your system first went online. With the excess power generation kicking in during April, May, June, July, August, September (and sometimes even October), you'll see your system live up to the promises made during the sales phase of your solar installation process. I write this because every single year, no matter how much effort we give to explain this to our customers, someone always seems to forget the key points of your first year of solar ownership. And you know what? That's OK! Because honestly, buying solar panels for your property is a leap-of-faith on many levels, and it's STRESSFUL! You are putting your faith in technology as well as a contractor that you may not have ever met. Couple that with strangers stomping around on your roof and power tools modifying your property, and it becomes pretty easy to realize that this one nuance of "first year ownership" can be looked over. I hope you find this post "Experiencing Seasons with your new Solar Panels" valuable - because all I really want you to feel is: RELIEF. It's gonna be fine! We promise! Your system is working just like it's supposed to! And by the time your system hits its first full year of net metering and accumulates all of the expected roll-over credits that you expect, each month's electric bill will be as expected - and hopefully paired with a smile on your face that says: I did it! Take care! Call us at (503) 857-0099 with any questions. Josh DPI Solar

Hello again! So you're back for more thoughts from the guy who thinks he's heard it all? Turns out, I haven't - at least not yet. But one thing I do hear about regularly is a question about how long will my solar panels last. Turns out, this is a question I've been trying to answer since we started 15 years ago. And even better, the answer gets better nearly every year. How's that you say? Well... read more! I usually start this answer by referencing the fact that commercially available solar panels were first made available by Bell Laboratories in the late 1950s. That's right - solar tech has been around longer than most folks who are reading this blog. Way back when (then) - solar panels were used for things like charging a battery on a channel marker in the ocean/river confluences. This in turn would turn on the "blinky" light and/or radio beacon so that ships could navigate these waterways. Of course, they were used for many other things, but as fate would have it, back in 1959 the Coast Guard installed one of these solar panels on "Buoy 10" in our own Columbia River/Pacific Ocean right here off the Oregon coast. That solar panel was left in operation until 1999 - 40 years of experiencing the worst things you could throw at a solar panel: salt water, seagulls resting on it, waves rocking the buoy (and by proxy, flexing the solar panel) and...and...and. Let's just say that the solar panel on that buoy is a far cry from the safety and stability you have when mounting new panels on your property. Well...when the time came to upgrade the buoy with better things like GPS, the Coast Guard pulled this solar panel off the buoy and donated it to a local university where it sat as an example for about 4 years. Again - fate stepped in and low-and-behold, SolarWorld decided to build a solar panel manufacturing plant in Hillsboro Oregon. When word spread that this new company was opening up, the university asked them to test the 1959 solar panel to see how it had fared during its working life. So one day, the students brought the old panel into the fab in Hillsboro where the SolarWorld techs calibrated their testing equipment to reflect the output of a 40+ year old panel. What they found was pretty impressive: After 40 years in a horrible environment, the solar panel had seen only a 19% drop off in its production (as estimated on day one after rolling off the assembly line). That's right: 40+ years after being assembled, the solar panel was still making over 80% of its rated power - and all this using 1950's tech, 1950's manufacturing methods, and 1950's materials. What we have available today (for modern solar panels) absolutely eclipses the tech seen all the way back in the 1950's. We have better manufacturing methods, better materials and processes to create the silicon that becomes solar panels, better, higher transparency glass that doesn't reflect the light it's trying to collect...and...and...and... It's easy to see how and why reputable solar panel manufacturers have been offering their 25 and 30 year Production warranty: they know that stuff built over 60 years ago was and is testing better than their typical warranties they're offering today. So, should you just dismiss this warranty? Not at all - but keep in mind that it's very unlikely that you'll ever need to try to enforce it on your own behalf. Solar panels built in the early part of the 2000's are still testing out much better than 86% after 20 year on rooftops. And the tech just keeps improving. So - what are the things to know before you start thinking about adding solar to your roof? Well - first and foremost - if these are going to easily last 25 years, you should really think about how old your roof is and whether or not it makes sense to add them now or later (after a roof replacement). Second - what about next year's solar panels? Will they be way better than this year's solar panels? In general - the answer here is: yes - they'll be better, but not 50% better - or even 10% better. Solar panels have done a few things every year that I've been around: a) the tech keeps getting more efficient - this means that they're squeezing more power out of the same space (than they did a year ago) b) in general - they look nicer than they did 20 years ago (when I touched my first solar panel). So - another question is: should I consider REPLACING my solar panels? For me, the answer I give goes back to an old bit of wisdom: if it ain't broke, don't fix it! What I am suggesting here is this: We know that the production of the solar panels is very good for a very long time. Because of this, your needs from these solar panels will be met for years (and maybe decades) without needing to change them out. If you chose to replace the panels you put up 5 years ago with solar panels made just a few months ago, you'd gain about 15% more power output in the same area covered. But...if you don't need more power and your electric bill is still as low as it was in the first year of your ownership, then why mess with a good thing? In my opinion, you won't need to replace your solar panels anytime soon - meaning for the next 20+ years if your needs don't change substantially. These babies are built to last! Hope you find "Estimating the Lifespan of Your Solar Panels" helpful. If you have more questions, feel free to reach out and make an appointment! Until then - thank you for your time! Josh

So you're neck deep in the solar project process and getting bids from a multitude of contractors. Each of them has their own pitch, right? Some come at you with the green/environmental approach while others sell their projects as financially sound investments. And then in between all of these pitches, you'll hear a variety of statements specifically designed to get you to push forward NOW (with them). What's my advice here? Well folks - read on so we can take a look at the red flag warnings from your solar sales people: I pulled the following list from an article I read recently from CNet (with the same catchy title that I used - if it ain't broke, don't fix it, right? - just give credit where credit is due) Here's a quick list of red flags and claims from Solar United Neighbors and the Department of Energy that should prompt you to do some research. · "The federal solar tax credit is going away soon." This used to be true prior to the Inflation Reduction Act becoming law. In that legislation, the federal government increases the tax credit (for this year) and keeps it at that level for the next 10 years. The new tax credit is 30% of money spent on the project (after any upfront incentives have been deducted). There's also provisions for 501c3 organizations that didn't exist prior to this legislation. Summary here: If ANY sales person says these words to you - DON'T TAKE THE BAIT. This is a high-pressure closing statement. · "There's a special program ending soon." This, my friends, CAN BE TRUE. It's worth noting that I've seen at least a dozen different programs come into and go out of existence since we started the company in 2008. From grant programs from the USDA, local grant programs for commercial projects funded by the state or the electric company themselve, state tax credits (that no longer exist), and utility funded up-front cash discounts. Government programs do end. Some local incentives are designed to help "jump-start" an industry, and once the industry is on its feet, those programs also end. Make sure you get the specifics and understand whatever program is being discussed. · "You only have one choice of equipment." This is generally FALSE. I will offer that we at DPI Solar do our diligence on the brands we offer to our customers, but by no means are our product offerings indicative of the full breadth of products available. There are many high quality brands out there for your equipment. If a sales person suggests that there is only one product available, my advice would be to question them as to why? DPI Solar reviews any products we put into our quoting workbooks. Our review process is not just about price or availability. In fact, yours truly takes a deeper look at the companies behind the products. I log into my stock trading platform and look at what the current news is on these companies: Are they solvent? Did they just request or seek an angel investment because they don't have enough of their own money to perform R&D without seeking outside funding? Have they ever restructured their debt to avoid bankruptcy? Once we get a few of what I consider to be BASIC fundamentals out of the way, I then take the remaining companies (and sadly - this process eliminates a LOT of potential candidates) and look at their tech vs price point. If I like what I see, I'll insert the products into our quoting workbooks to offer to our customers. My opinion is this: what good is the best tech if the company behind it is "running in the red" and about to declare bankruptcy or sell? If they aren't around to honor their warranty then I don't want to sell their products to our customers. Plain and Simple · "Your utility is going to raise electricity prices XX% each year." Again - this statement is mostly TRUE. The real question is whether or not the quoted increases are in line with reality. After 15 years in this business, DPI Solar has settled on a conservative rate increase per year of 4% built into our bidding workbook. The reality of our local utilities is generally a few percentage points higher (on average) per year. Unfortunately, one of the largest utilities we deal with hit our customers with a 14.7% rate increase this year with another 7% slated for next year. Our other largest utility hit their customers with a 7.8% rate increase this year with the same 7% slated for next year as well. The bottom line here is this: All utilities in our state (Oregon) are required to submit an application to the Public Utility Commission requesting their proposed rate increases. These requests are a matter of public record. If you're getting that "not so fresh feeling" about your shiny new solar sales person and think they might be over-stating the rate increases, then either check around with other companies first (before signing) or check the public records available from your state utility board (in Oregon, that board is the "Public Utility Commission"). One way or the other, you'll find the truth and know if the over-estimate is justified or just another sleazy tactic to push you forward sooner on your project. · "You can save up to 100% on your electricity bill." This statement is VERY subjective. I try to compare our customer's needs to the individuality of a fingerprint - no single one is identical. We have had identical homes right next to each other install solar panels on their homes. One customer installs 15 solar panels while the other installs 30. What's the difference? SO MUCH! So many things can determine how much solar your property might need (or how much solar your budget can buy). DPI Solar always tries to show our customers a system that is capable of delivering 100% of their purchased electricity in year one (we actually tend to oversize the systems up to 5% to allow for solar panel degradation that will leave you with a system showing minimal age-related losses many years into the future). But...there's always a catch: sometimes there's not enough "roof real-estate" to fit enough solar panels to offset 100% of your bill. Sometimes the cost to offset 100% is not something the budget will allow for. Sometimes there's enough room and enough budget, but Mother Nature decided to grow a tall tree right in the solar path of the sun (and your solar panels). IN GENERAL - DPI Solar attempts to provide designs and projects that will eliminate as much of your electric bill as we can without compromising your incentives (which can be based on "minimum site efficiency") or our integrity. We don't want to put something on your property that doesn't deliver as promised. If you look at multiple installers during your buying process, a clearer picture is likely to emerge and you'll be able to "spot the fake" bidders due to large discrepancies in size of system or offset quoted. Your bidders' designs should somewhat mimic each other and the quoted offsets should also line up. If one contractor is coming in with a low bid and high offset, take a closer look - because in general, we find that our designs are not too different from other high-integrity contractors. · "Put solar on your roof for free!" This statement is BY FAR FALSE! And honestly, there is no other claim on this list that frustrates me more than this one statement. Before you believe this hype, I just want you to ask yourself this one question: were you EVER allowed to go to a car dealership and drive a new car off the lot for free - and NOT go to jail? Me neither. So, why the car dealership analogy? Because in general, the amount of money you're likely to spend on a solar project is comparable to buying a new car (with price ranges for residential ranging from $12k all the way to $100k). So why would some sleazy advertising company make this statement? Did it get you to look? Probably. They call it "click-bait" for a reason. You clicked. And if you started reading the fine print, you likely noticed something there that said "upon approved credit" - and there's the catch! If we go back to the car lot analogy, you'll start to see why this is such a relevant analogy: because there ARE ways you can drive off the lot with a new car (or put solar on your property) without writing a check THAT DAY (hint: it's called FINANCING YOUR PURCHASE). The takeaway here is very important: there are NO government or local programs that are going to fully subsidize any solar projects. Even if you're part of a low-to-middle income group, the best you can hope for is a deeper discount/larger incentives (than what is given to non-income restricted buyers). But even with deeper discounts/larger incentives, you'll still end up either paying the difference in cash or financing the balance. Can you get solar on your home with "no money down and no money immediately out of pocket"? Yes. ON APPROVED CREDIT! Folks - the old adage is as true here as it is everywhere else: There's no such thing as a "free lunch" - there's ALWAYS a catch. And that's why I hate seeing this advertising ploy more than anything else - because it triggers people to call with hope in their heart - and we get to break their spirit with cold, hard truth. · "You can say your home is powered by green energy." This one (for our customers) is true - but not for ALL customers. This statement can be considered false if you signed a lease to acquire your solar panels or if you decided to install solar on your commercial property but did so to sell it to the electric company (instead of using it onsite). The basis for this statement centers around these imaginary widgets called "renewable energy certificates" or "REC's". A renewable energy certificate is something that the EPA recognizes as a specific "volume of power generated with a renewable energy source" (like solar panels). When your solar panel system generates one kilowatt-hour of energy, the EPA would say that your system also created one REC. But this is where things get sticky: a REC is "born" when the system generates one kilowatt hour of power, but the REC is "retired" once that kilowatt-hour of power is consumed. If you are using net metering (most of us are), then your REC's are born and expired mostly at the same moment (kilowatt-hour by kilowatt-hour) onsite. Why? Because you either received a full-value credit on your electric bill for excess power generation OR you actually used the solar power inside the property as it was produced (thus stopping the electric meter from "spinning"). So why on earth do these things exist in the first place if most solar owners are using the power onsite (instead of exporting it to the electric grid for resale)? Well, I like to think of these things like radio tags you sometimes see on wildlife that wildlife biologists attach to things like bears, wolves, and sharks. Having the radio tag allows the biologist to track the animal's position. In much the same way, when a REC is created or "born", having this volume of power "tagged" and/or trackable allows the owner to "track" where it goes and show that it was delivered to a specific site and "retired" once delivered. So, should you worry about whether or not you need to track your REC's? Nope. To the majority of our clientele, they are using their solar power onsite, and there is no reason to track that power as it's evident in a lower electric bill (not to mention that there is sophisticated software and hardware requirements for folks who DO track their REC's). The take-away from this statement is this: if you own the system (either by outright purchase or financing) you can claim the prize: your property is powered by green energy! But - if you leased your system from one of those national brands who talked you into a lease, then THEY own the power and the manufacturing equipment and you got a lower bill, but oddly - by the rules of the EPA, you actually can't claim your property is "powered by green energy". The same is true for those commercial operators who install solar panels to generate power to sell to the wholesale market (instead of using it themselves). The above statements are just a few of the most common examples of sales-y statements that you'll hear on your path to install a solar project. Knowing the truth behind the statements will make you a better consumer of this product and will definitely set up proper expectations. DPI Solar might offer up a few of these savory statements for your consumption, but we ALWAYS make sure we explain their meaning and provide some clarity and transparency on these statements. In the end, we want you to have a great experience while also giving you a solid foundation to build your knowledge base from. Want to hear some better statements (like "break-even year" or "return on investment")? Give us a call or send up a smoke signal - we'll find ya! Until then - thanks for reading and talk soon, Josh Kopczynski